Countries: Scotland
Cities: Edinburgh, Inverness, Portree, Oban
Highlights: Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, Dean Village, Underground Vaults of Edinburgh, Isle of Skye, Old Man of Storr, Doune Castle, Faerie Glen, Glen Coe, Jacobite Steam Train, Glenfinnan Viaduct, Kilmarten Glen
If Scotland isn’t on your travel list yet, it should be. From breathtaking highlands to charming villages, this country is packed with history, adventure, and enough scenic views to overload your camera roll.
As with all trips, a detailed itinerary was made months in advance. I used the help of Secret Scotland and Wayfaring Kiwi to come up with the itinerary and map below.
| Location | Attractions | Overnight | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 0 | Leave for Edinburgh | ||
| Day 1 | Edinburgh – land | Relax/get settled, Hop on Hop Off Bus tour | Edinburgh Destiny Scotland Canning Street Lane |
| Day 2 | Edinburgh | Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, Palace of Holyroodhouse, Dean Village, Arthur’s Seat, Elephant House (JK Rowling), Greyfriars Kirkyard (Harry Potter)Mercat vault tour 3pm | Edinburgh Destiny Scotland Canning Street Lane |
| Day 3 | Edinburgh to Highlands/Inverness Pick up car Celtic Legend (Arnold Clark) | Hungtingtower Castle, Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Blair Castle, Cawdor Castle, Clava Cairns, Culloden Battlefield Dinner reservation Hootananny | InvernessAirbnb5 Huntly Terrace Huntly Street, Inverness, Highland IV3 5PS UK |
| Day 4 | Inverness | Skye tour | InvernessAirbnb |
| Day 5 | Inverness to Lochness/Isle of Skye | Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, Eilean Donan Castle (Carr Brae Viewpoint), Glen Shiel, Ratagan Pass, Iron Age Brochs in Gleann Beag, Plockton, Skye Bridge | Portree/Skye Airbnb16 Glamaig Pl Portree IV51 9PJ UK |
| Day 6 | Skye | Old Man of Storr, Quirang/Trotternish Ridge, Kilt Rock, Lealt Falls, Fairy Glen | Portree/Skye Airbnb Laundry at Portree Independent Hostel |
| Day 7 | Skye to Oban | Glen Coe, Glen Nevis, Ferry, Armadale Castle, Camusdarrach Beach, Prince’s Cairn, Loch Eilt, Glenfinnan (Jacobite steam train 10:45am or 3pm), Fort William, Castle Stalker | Oban Barcaldine Castle |
| Day 8 | Oban | Mull, Iona, Saffra tour Iona Abbey Early bird 7am Dinner Reservation Creagan Inn 7:30 | Oban Barcaldine Castle |
| Day 9 | Oban to Edinburgh via Stirling Castle Drop off car Royal military tattoo 9:30 | Oban Highland GamesDunstaffnage Castle, Doune Castle, Inverawe Smokehouse, Stirling Castle | Edinburgh ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge – Royal Mile |
| Day 10 | Depart Edinburgh |
While this would be a great itinerary to use (and you might consider it!), our trip did not exactly go according to plan. The weather was a major issue. So this blog post will cover what we ACTUALLY did, my likes and dislikes, and my recommendations for you to have the perfect trip!
What to Pack for 10 Days in Scotland in Summer
We traveled to Scotland in mid-August. We knew it would be rainy (it is Scotland after all!), and the forecast called for lows in the 50s(F) and highs in the 60s(F). This doesn’t sound so cold, but 50s and sunny is WAY different than 50s and rainy and windy. So it was COLD – colder than we expected. And it was much rainier than expected (to be fair, we were there during a tropical storm). About half of the days, all of the clothes on our bodies were completely soaked through, and we had to alternate sneakers while the other pair dried on the radiator the next day.
My Packing List with recommendations:
- Rain Jacket – I highly recommend a jacket with GoreTex
- Puffy Jacket
- Light Hoodie with zippered pockets
- Nice sweater
- Flannel shirt
- Hiking long-sleeve shirt x 2
- Hiking t-shirt x 2 – probably could have gotten away with 1
- Nice t-shirt
- Jeans x 2 – I packed 2, but I would trade out 1 for hiking pants
- Leggings x 2 – I packed 2, but I would trade out 1 for hiking pants
- Sweatpants
- Tank Top x 2 – one undershirt and one nice
- Merino wool socks
- Waterproof walking sneakers (nice) – I liked both Vessi’s and Sorel’s!
- Waterproof hiking sneakers
- Sandals – were not needed at all (unless you want to wear them in the shower)
- Dress x 2 – did not wear at all
- Underwear/bras
Amazingly, I was able to fit this all into one carry-on! Woohoo for saving money (and my back)!
Using an E-Sim in Scotland
I decided that an e-Sim would be my best option in Scotland. With an e-Sim, you cannot get texts or phone calls, but using WhatsApp is an easy alternative. You do get e-mail, maps, social media, and the internet, and because it was only $12 for the entire trip, the huge money savings (as opposed to a $10/day plan from a cell carrier) was worth it to me.
I decided to use Sparks 10GB plan and it was more than enough (I ended up using about 5GB). My husband went with Airolo. There were several areas of the Highlands where I was able to get service and he was not, so for that reason, I would recommend Sparks.
Should you get an Explorer Pass?
The Explorer Pass allows free entry into many of Scotland’s castles and attractions. The answer to this question is, it depends! For us, the cost to enter the castles we were visiting did not cover the cost of the pass, so it wasn’t worth it to us. However, if you’re visiting different attractions, add up the individual costs and see if the pass is a better deal.
Day 1: Arrive in Edinburgh – Hop On-Hop Off Bus, Royal Mile, Dean Village, Georgian House, Harry Potter sites
As were were coming from the US, we took an overnight flight from EWR to Edinburgh landing around 11am Edinburgh time. We took the Bright Bus from Edinburgh Airport to our first accommodations – Destiny Scotland Apartments at Canning Street Lane. The Bright Bus was simple to use, affordable, and quick. Upon arrival at Destiny Scotland Apartments, we were unable to check in but they did allow us place to store our luggage, which was very helpful.
Since we were exhausted, we decided the best way to see the city would be the Hop On Hop Off bus. We weren’t exactly sure where to find one, but we figured if we walked towards the Royal Mile and Edinburgh, we would eventually see one, and we were correct! We got our first view of the castle while walking through St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard. (We later learned that St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard was known for body-snatchers stealing and selling bodies to the University of Edinburgh in the early 18th century).
Seeing Edinburgh Castle perched on top of that mountain was absolutely magical. We followed the winding passageways and busy streets until we reached the entrance. Of course we couldn’t go in yet – Edinburgh Castle has a strict ticketing system and I highly recommend making reservations in advance. We had a tour scheduled for the next day, but from the entrance to the castle, we were able to start the path down the Royal Mile.
The Royal Mile is a historic street in Edinburgh, stretching approximately one mile through the heart of the city’s Old Town. It runs between Edinburgh Castle at the top of Castle Hill and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. There are many narrow alleys, or “closes,” which offer a glimpse into Edinburgh’s past. I’ll discuss those in more depth a bit later.
From here, we walked down a bit until we found the Hop On Hop Off bus operator. The tour is valid for 48 hours and runs around the most important locations in Edinburgh. We rode it around, making note of where we should stop back later once we were freshened up and feeling a bit more alive.
After the tour, we grabbed lunch at a spot near our apartment – The Fox and the Faun. Food was delicious but service was mediocre. We got settled into our apartment, which was much nicer and larger than I expected.
While I had planned to take a nap at this point, it was a beautiful day in Edinburgh (around 70F) and the weather forecast for the following day did not look as nice. I didn’t want to waste the day away so I decided I needed to explore as much as I could, even if I was exhausted. Depending on the weather forecast, I would adjust your schedule to maximize sunshine.
My first stop would be Dean Village, a picturesque and tranquil oasis that feels like a step back in time. It was just a short 10 minute walk from our apartment. Once you arrive in Dean Village, you can walk up the Water of Leith Walkway, over the Dean Bridge and back up the other side.
From there, I walked over the Georgian House, a beautifully preserved example of 18th-century urban elegance. This historic townhouse, dating back to the 1790s, offers a fascinating glimpse into Edinburgh’s affluent past, showcasing the architectural and interior design of the Georgian era. Unfortunately I was unable to go inside, but it looked beautiful from the outside!
Next, I wanted to explore more of “New Town”. In Edinburgh, there are two main halves, known as the Old Town and New Town. The Old Town is the historic heart of Edinburgh, characterized by its medieval layout and narrow, winding streets. The New Town, built in the 18th and 19th centuries, is noted for its orderly grid layout, tranquil green spaces and upscale shopping. The Old Town and New Town are separated by the area known as the Princes Street Gardens, a picturesque public park that runs between them. It was a beautiful day and Princes Street Gardens was packed with people! It has a beautiful view of the Castle and Old Town as seen below.
I walked along the Gardens until I reached the Scott Monument. The Scott Monument is a striking Gothic revival monument erected to honor Sir Walter Scott, the renowned Scottish author and poet best known for works like “Ivanhoe” and “Rob Roy.”
From here, I walked across the bridge into Old Town. My first goal was to explore more of the Royal Mile. I walked down the Royal Mile and into various closes, or narrow alleyways, as I came across them. Each felt unique and honestly a bit spooky. Some led to restaurants, while others led to stores or houses. I ended up stumbling upon a Writer’s Museum, which housed exhibits to Scotland’s most famous writers. It was free and an interesting little stop.
Further down the Royal Mile, I found St. Giles Cathedral, a gorgeous church with a rich history. The church has been a key religious site since the 12th century. It is free to go inside, and I highly recommend you do. Inside is a mixture of medieval and Victorian Gothic elements, with beautiful stained glass windows, stone pillars, and vaulted ceilings. I highly recommend a visit to the Thistle Chapel, which is the spiritual home of the Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s foremost order of chivalry.
PRO TIP: The Edinburgh Festival in August is a world-famous, month-long celebration of the arts and culture, transforming Scotland’s capital into a hub of creativity, performance, and entertainment. It includes several major festivals happening simultaneously, including the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and Royal Military Tattoo. Because of this, people were handing out flyers for various shows constantly, performances were happening in the street, and in general, it was a bit chaotic. If you happen to be going in August, that’s great, but be aware that prices for everything skyrocket and restaurants fill up quickly!
As a Harry Potter fan, I wanted to explore some sites with a connection to Harry Potter. My next stop would be colorful Victoria Street. This charming, curved street is famous for its vibrant, multicolored shopfronts and its lively atmosphere. This street was apparently the inspiration for Diagon Alley!
My next Harry Potter stop would be Elephant House, where J.K. Rowling wrote parts of the early Harry Potter books. Unfortunately, the shop was under repair due to a fire, but even walking on the same streets as J.K. Rowling felt magical.
Next I intended to head to Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, where J.K. Rowling supposedly wandered for inspiration. However, on the way, I stumbled upon Greyfriars Bobby. Greyfriars Bobby is one of Edinburgh’s most beloved and heartwarming legends, centered around a small Skye Terrier named Bobby who became famous for his unwavering loyalty to his owner. When his owner passed, Bobby reportedly spent the rest of his life (14 years) guarding his master’s grave, rarely leaving the gravesite except for food and shelter.
Next I went in and explored Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. This graveyard is said to inspired several of J.K. Rowling’s character names. Sure enough, I found a grave for Robert Potter, William McGonagall and even Thomas Riddle (just to name a few). There are guided tours you can take, and I would recommend them for the hardcore Harry Potter fans out there.
It was finally time for dinner. The Grassmarket is a historic courtyard in Edinburgh filled with Scottish pubs and restaurants. We decided to check it out for a bite, some drinks and a quick hop back to Victoria Street to witness it’s beauty at night. The Grassmarket is also a great spot for a nighttime view of the Castle!
Day 2: Edinburgh Castle, Underground Vaults, Royal Mile Continued
Before coming to Scotland, we had booked a guided tour of the Edinburgh Castle on Day 2 (to make sure we were well-rested). The tour only takes a half hour and then you are free to explore on your own. I highly recommend this tour, as the Castle is quite extensive and impressive. You can venture into the historical chapel, the old barracks, prisons, and even see some royal artifacts.
Another tour we had booked that day was the Mercat Underground Vault Tour. This was booked for a little bit later so we grabbed lunch on the Royal Mile for our first haggis experience! It was surprisingly delicious. The Underground Vault Tour was VERY cool! With a tour guide, we learned about the dark history of Edinburgh and the vaults (spoiler: crime and dead bodies). Overall, I’d definitely recommend this tour.
After the tour, we decided on a whim to check out a nearby comedy show at The Monkey Barrel. As previously mentioned, people were handing out flyers all over the place, so we just decided to attend one! It was a fun experience that I’d do again.
Next, we decided to finish the Royal Mile as we had never walked the entire way. The Royal Mile ends at the Palace of Holyroodhouse, which was beautiful from the outside. The royals still reside there sometimes and tours are available if you purchase tickets in advance. From there, it’s convenient to hike to Arthur’s Seat, a beautiful vista overlooking Edinburgh. We decided against it as we had been walking for hours at this point and the weather wasn’t great, but if you have more time, I heard it’s worth a visit!
That night we grabbed dinner back at the Grassmarket at a restaurant called The Last Drop. We absolutely LOVED the traditional live music they had there. The food was delicious too!
Day 3: Edinburgh to Inverness
After two lovely days exploring Edinburgh, it was time to get out of the city. We had made reservations in advance to pick up our car at Celtic Legend. Celtic Legend had cars that were MUCH more affordable than rental agencies such as Hertz or Enterprise, AND they had a pickup/dropoff location not at the airport (closer to Edinburgh City). So we took an easy 15 minute tram ride (purchased tickets at the tram station) and picked up our rental car.
Driving on the left side of the road, on the right side of the car, was an experience to say the least. My husband did the driving, and it took mostly the entire trip to get used to it. However, we obeyed the speed limit and driving rules and were totally fine the entire time. It’s an odd feeling, but completely doable even for the nervous drivers out there!
Driving to Inverness directly takes about 3.5 hours, but we wanted to make a day of it and explore along the way. We ended up going to a nearby grocery store (Aldi, for the win!) and picking up snacks and lunch for the day.
Our first scenic stop on our road trip to Inverness was Huntingtower Castle. We very much enjoyed this castle because we were the only people in it! We were able to explore at our leisure and even go up to the roof and walk around the outside. It was well-preserved and ended up being one of our favorite castles of the entire trip.
We ended up skipping the next recommended stop of Dunkeld and instead went to the Queen’s View, a beautiful vista overlooking the winding river below. We had to pay $2 for the carpark and then there was a short walk to the viewpoint. There were also nearby picnic tables so we decided it was a good spot to have a short lunch. (Note that the cafe and restrooms were closed when we visited, so you may want to check this out before relying on this stop as a bathroom stop.)
After that, we continued on our journey towards Inverness and stopped by the Highland Folk Museum. We found this stop VERY interesting and it’s one that I wouldn’t miss. There were Highland Coos and various historical Scottish buildings (as well as a modern cafe and toilets). A little bit of a walk away, there’s even a reconstructed village where they filmed some of Outlander!
If you’re a big Outlander fan, I highly recommend taking a Outlander guided tour.
Our next stop was one of the most magnificent (and eerie, I might add). The Ruthven Barracks is a free stop and yet, we were the only ones there. These barracks were set up by the English to control the Scots after the Jacobite uprising, so there is definitely a lot of history here. The ruins were still in very good shape and we enjoyed exploring them on our own.
After that, we drove over towards the Clava Cairns, a prehistoric burial site. The grounds are over 4,000 years old and were actually the inspiration for Outlander. There’s not too much to see, but it’s an interesting 10 minute stop.
The last stop before heading into Inverness was the Culloden Battlefield. The battlefield marks the site of the historic 1746 battle between the Duke of Cumberland and Prince Charles. The battle lasted less than an hour and over 1,250 Jacobites were killed. This is also featured in Outlander. Unfortunately the Visitor’s Center was closed by the time we arrived, so we were not able to view the exhibits which are supposed to be fantastic. We did view the battlefield, but did not walk around to explore at all.
After that, it was a short drive to Inverness. We had rented an Airbnb close to downtown which we LOVED. It was comfortable and warm after a long day of driving and being cold.
We had made reservations in advance for Hootananny’s. They had live music, which was perfect, and the food was delicious, but there were only 2 servers for what seemed like 100 tables, so service was a bit slow and chaotic. We were forgotten about several times (for example, our second drinks never came), but overall, it was an okay option.
We headed back to our Airbnb for an early night.
Day 4: Scottish Highlands Guided Tour
When planning this trip, I was quite nervous about the amount of driving that we would be doing. I thought a better idea would be to take a guided tour, learn all about the Highlands through a guide first, and then spend the next few days exploring in more detail. We booked this Isle of Skye tour in advance.
We were able to walk to our tour departure point from the Airbnb, which was nice, but when we got there, there were hundreds of other people waiting in line. The tour ended up being 3 full charter buses (plus several smaller buses) going to the same locations at the same time. For this reason, I would NOT recommend this tour and would recommend either a smaller tour or driving yourself. That being said, we were able to see a lot in one day without the hassle of trying to figure out where to go.
The first stop was a small gift shop and some Highland Coos. Because of the amount of people the cows were quite far away and the ones we had seen the previous day were much more majestic. Unfortunately I don’t even recall the name of this stop.
Next, our tour guide brought us around the Loch Ness and explained the lure and history of the Loch Ness Monster. We found this fascinating. We looked for Nessie (there’s a $5 million reward) but no sightings unfortunately. The next stop where we could get out was Uquhart Castle, located on the Loch Ness. We did not tour the castle (we were told it’s not worth the price), but got some great photos from a viewpoint up the road.
The next stop was one I had been the most excited for for a long time – Eilean Donan Castle. This picturesque castle is the most photographed in Scotland. While it WAS quite beautiful, it was also EXTREMELY crowded. We were able to purchase tickets as we arrived, but the “tour” consisted of waiting in line with hundreds of other people and we could hardly see anything. We were packed in like sardines! I might recommend doing this tour on your own (instead of with a tour group) and doing it first thing in the morning. There are also additional trails in this area you can explore, if you have the time.
After our tour of the castle, the tour bus headed towards Portree. Portree is a cute little town with quaint, colorful shops along the harbor. Unfortunately, this cute town could not handle the hundreds of people looking for lunch. We walked around for about 30 minutes trying to find somewhere that would take us (everyone said they were full) and eventually settled on a pastry and hot chocolate from a cafe, and going to the grocery store in town for something to eat.
After departing Portree, the tour bus headed further into the Isle of Skye. We passed the Old Man of Storr (more on this later) and then stopped at Kilt Rock and Lealt Falls for some photos.
From there, our bus turned around and headed back towards Inverness. We made a few other short stops on the way back (more Highland cows, more views of Eilean Donan Castle), but nothing I’d particularly recommend.
Once back in Inverness, it was about 8pm and we were starving. We hadn’t made reservations and we stopped at 3 locations that said they were full. Luckily we found the Playback Bar, who were able to take us in right away, had super fast and easy service, and the food was delicious! That night we ended up at Glenalbyn Bar and had a great time with some locals.
Day 5: Inverness to Portree – Old Man of Storr and Quiraing
It was time to get back on the road with our own car! The plan for today actually ended up being the exact same tour we had done the day previously – oops. However, since we were on our own, we decided it would be the perfect opportunity to get in some of the hikes we had wanted to do. The first being the most famous hike in Scotland – the Old Man of Storr.
The Old Man of Storr is a famous rock formation on the Isle of Skye. Legend has it that the rock resembles the face of an old man, and some stories say it was once a giant who was turned to stone. The hike itself was not very long (around 3.5 miles roundtrip) but it was steep in places. However, if you have the ability, I would highly recommend not missing this! It was one of the highlights of our trip.
Note that there are longer hikes you can do in this area. However, because of the weather, we decided it would be safest to get back to the car once we reached the “best view”.
After the Old Man of Storr, we headed to the Quiraing. This area is another one of the most photographed spots in Scotland, and for good reason! The dramatic rock formations, steep cliffs, and rolling green hills all combine to create a stunning landscape.
We had planned to hike the ~4.5 mile loop here, but unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans. Just as we arrived, the skies opened and we were in a torrential downpour. We decided to still check out a little bit of the hike (we were in Scotland after all!) but we probably only made it a half mile out and back. It was still a beautiful view from the parking lot though, so I’d recommend checking this out even in the rain.
After that, there wasn’t much we could do other than head to our Airbnb in Portree. This Airbnb was within walking distance to town (maybe 10-15 minutes) and felt very clean and comfortable. It was attached to the owner’s house, so we did have to be considerate of noise, but otherwise it was a great option.
We decided to grab some dinner and drinks out on the town. Of course we had to try Irn Bru, the national soft drink of Scotland! (Note: It wasn’t for me, but my husband enjoyed it!) We spent the rest of the night at The Isles Inn and actually ended up meeting many other travelers there!
Day 6: Relax and Faerie Glen
I had kept this as a “free day” in our itinerary as I like to have a day to recoup or do laundry, as well as leave open time in case anything comes up that I really want to see. Unfortunately, it was another rainy day so long hikes weren’t in the cards for us.
After a relaxing breakfast, we decided to check out the nearby Faerie Glen. The Faerie Glen is a picturesque, mystical valley with cone-shaped hills that resemble miniature mountains and winding footpaths. I actually really loved this area, as I felt like I was stepping into a fantasy world. The hiking paths are leisurely and it made for a perfect relaxing afternoon. I especially loved all of the sheep strolling around the hills!
After this, we debated going to the Fairy Pools, but my research told me it was overcrowded and not worth the effort. Instead, we decided to have a much-needed afternoon in the Airbnb, taking a nap, and reading a little bit as the rain came down.
For dinner, we had made reservations at Gasta Port Righ (actually in the visitor’s center). The pizza did not disappoint!
Day 7: Portree to Oban
It was time to move onto our next destination – Oban! The direct path from Portree to Oban is about 3.5 hours of traveling, but taking the scenic route and stopping at various attractions along the way made it a full day of travel.
The first route of the journey was driving to the Armadale Ferry station. We had booked ferry tickets online here a couple of days in advance (recommended). If you are doing this, you should be booking the Armadale to Mallaig ferry. Keep in mind, ferries are often canceled due to weather, but the earlier you travel, the less chance of bad weather. We booked the very first ferry of the day and made it, but the ferries later that day were all cancelled. It does make for an early morning wake-up call, though!
The ride to the ferry station was beautiful in the morning sun. There is also Armadale Castle on the way, but we didn’t want to risk being late for the ferry, so we skipped it. Of course, we were second in line to get on the ferry. The boat ride was beautiful, but freezing cold. Make sure to bundle up!
After getting off the ferry in Mallaig, our first stop was Camusdarrach Beach. I didn’t know that beaches like this existed in Scotland! White sand and crystal clear blue waters. Of course it was too cold to swim, but we touched the water and took in the beauty around us. Note there is a tiny car park and a short walk through the dunes to reach this beach, but it was worth it.
As a Harry Potter fan, I was extremely excited about the next couple of stops. The first is Eilean na Moine, or Dumbledore’s Grave in the movies. There was a tiny shoulder on the side of the road to park, and the only reason we would know to stop is that other cars were stopped there. To be honest, it was SO MUDDY we could not get very close without being up to our knees in mud. But it was still a fun, quick stop.
The next stop was one of the reasons we came to Scotland: the Jacobite Steam Train passing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, or The Hogwarts Express. Obviously this is an iconic part of the Harry Potter movies, and a site that is EXTREMELY popular. You can ride the Jacobite Steam Train, but then you don’t really get the view of it going over the viaduct, so we opted not to do that.
The train passes over the viaduct 4 times a day, 2 times going east and 2 times going west. As this may change, I would check their website or Secret Scotland to confirm timing. For us, it was at 10:45am.
We read that we should get to the Glenfinnan Viaduct an hour in advance, but even that was not enough. There were people parked anywhere and everywhere, and the parking lot was closed to any more visitors by the time we arrived. Thankfully, my husband, who is not as big of a Harry Potter fan, dropped me off and ended up finding parking about a mile and a half away. He probably could have walked back to the Viaduct in time, but opted to wait for me and pick me up later.
The walk to the viewing spot (past the Viaduct) took approximately 15 minutes. The viewing spot was EXTREMELY muddy, steep and crowded. There were probably hundreds of people anxiously waiting for the train to pass by, and multiple people, including myself, kept slipping down the muddy hill.
Finally, the time had come! The train passed by and blew it’s steam. Everyone cheered. It was a cool site to see, but honestly felt a little bit “Disney World”, unfortunately. Obviously if you’re a Harry Potter fan, you can’t miss this, but if not, maybe skip the crowds.
Our next stop was Old Inverlochy Castle. It was surrounded by a large fence, so there honestly wasn’t much to see here. BUT it was right near the Highland Soap Company and Visitor Center. This place had great bathrooms, a café, and tons of fun souvenirs (of course I had to pick some up!).
Our next stop was the Glencoe Visitor Center. We figured it would be a good starting point to learn about what to explore in the area, AND there were beautiful views from the exhibition. While it was beautiful, at this point, the rain really started to pick up, so we didn’t stay for very long.
Next, we had hoped to hike the Three Sisters of Glencoe, but the weather was just not cooperating. We stopped in the car park for a quick photo and continued on our way.
The next stop was the one my husband was most excited about: Castle Stalker. This castle is featured in the movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail as the exterior of the Castle Aaargh. To get there, you actually have to park at the back of the Castle Stalker View Cafe and walk down the path. The path is quite steep in parts, but with sturdy shoes, it’s not too difficult. There is a viewpoint from up above as well, if you don’t want to walk all the way down to the shoreline.
After Castle Stalker, we decided to check into our next accommodations – a REAL CASTLE. I always wanted to stay overnight in a castle, and I thought what better place to do it than in Scotland? Of course, I didn’t want to spend a million dollars to fulfill my dream, so I found the perfect balance of history and price – Barcaldine Castle.
Upon arrival, our host gave us a tour of the castle, showing us the secret staircases and dungeon and providing some history of the castle. The room itself was comfortable and modern, and we especially loved the central dining hall with gigantic fireplace and period décor.
After getting settled and showered, we decided to venture into Oban for dinner. Oban is a very cute town, although bigger than the towns we had previously stayed in. We had no problem getting dinner quickly at a local pub, walking around a bit, and then grabbing drinks at the Oban Inn.
Day 9: Exploring Oban’s Castles and Standing Stones
On the itinerary on this day, we had a tour booked to visit the islands of Mull, Iona and Saffra. Unfortunately, the tour got cancelled due to weather. Instead we decided to drive and explore the area around Oban. It rained HARD this entire day (who knew there were tropical storms in Scotland?), but we tried to make the best of it. The good news was that with the weather, we had most of these locations to ourselves!
Our first stop was Carnasserie Castle, which is in ruins but beautifully preserved. It’s a bit of a walk from the car park (about 10 minutes uphill) but it’s free! I actually loved this castle and was glad to have made the stop.
Next we stopped by the Kilmarten Museum. Kilmarten Glen is known for stone circles and the museum gives a little bit of insight into these ancient artifacts. There’s also a bathroom there.
We then ventured to look at the standing stones. We followed the signs to a car park a short drive away. It was a short walk to the stones, and to be honest, I’m not sure what else we expected. It was interesting to think about who put these stones here, but to be fair, it was just some large stones in a field.
Next, we made a stop at Dunadd Fort. This medieval hillfort was known to be the royal center of the kingdom of Dál Riata, a Gaelic-speaking kingdom that existed from the 6th to the 9th century. You can even see a footprint in the ground where it was believed the new kings were crowned.
Our last stop of the day was St. Conan’s Kirk, a unique church known for it’s eclectic architectural style. It was free to enter, and honestly a nice respite from the rain.
We spent some time exploring inside before heading back to Oban for dinner. That night, we had made reservations in advance at the Craegan Inn. It was a lovely spot on the water for some warm soup. As an aside, I had also planned to visit Inverary Castle on this day. Unfortunately, the castle is closed on Wednesdays, so something to keep in mind!
Day 10: Oban to Edinburgh
For our last full day in Scotland, we had to head back to Edinburgh to fly out. We had planned months in advance to attend Highland Games somewhere in Scotland, and aligned our schedule to be able to attend the Oban Highland Games. We bought our tickets at the gate and went in. There were some food trucks, a track with high school boys doing various events, some little girls doing Scottish dancing, bagpipers piping, and some men throwing large stones in the middle of the field. It was a unique experience, but we only felt the need to stay for about an hour.
After that, we headed in the direction of Edinburgh with only one stop on the way: Doune Castle. This castle was ALSO featured in Monty Python and the Holy Grail (it was the primary filming location) and Outlander so it was a must-see for us. It actually ended up being one my favorite castles! The interior was beautifully preserved and the audio guides were very informational and interesting.
From there, we went back to Edinburgh, dropped off our car, and took the train to our hotel for the night: ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge. The hotel was centrally located and clean. We actually grabbed dinner in the hotel to save time (I would not recommend this restaurant).
As I always get depressed on the last night of a vacation, I wanted to have something fun planned. I had booked in advance tickets to see the Royal Military Tattoo. This show brings together various military bands throughout the world to perform on one stage, right in front of Edinburgh Castle. It was THE BEST! If you only can do one thing in Edinburgh, this would be it. There is not a bad seat in the house, and the performances were unbelievable. Of course, book this in advance as tickets sell out quickly!
After the show, we decided to check out some live music, so we headed to Whistlebinkies. This was the perfect end to our trip. We made some friends, danced, and had the best time for our last night in Scotland.
Day 11: Goodbye Scotland
After an amazing trip, it was time to pack our bags and head to the airport. We took the Bright Bus back, which was comfortable and affordable. We even got a free pair of orange sunglasses. 🙂
Whether you’re drawn to the landscapes, the history, or just a good dram of whisky, Scotland has something for everyone. So pack your bags, embrace the adventure, and don’t forget your rain jacket! Please feel free to reach out if you need any help planning or booking your trip!
